Deep-Water Soloing (DWS) on Mallorca's most formidable limestone arch. From Chris Sharma's 9a+ masterclass to accessible coastal traverses.
9a+ (5.15a YDS) on the main overhanging face. One of the hardest routes globally.
French Grade 5 / 6a (Accessible climb for intermediate coastal climbers).
Never climb alone. Use liquid chalk, check marine currents, and wear water shoes.
Ask any climber, and they'll tell you: Mallorca is the absolute birthplace of deep-water soloing. We locals call it psicobloc. There are no ropes, no harnesses, and no metal bolts drilled into the rock—your only safety net is the deep, turquoise embrace of the Mediterranean below. It's climbing in its purest, most beautiful form.
Back in September 2006, my friend, the late climbing godfather Miquel Riera, pointed out a seemingly impossible line on the inner curve of Es Pontàs to Californian legend Chris Sharma. What followed is climbing history. Chris spent months projecting it, working through razor-sharp limestone pockets until he conquered the route. The climax is a legendary, heart-stopping 7-foot (2.1-metre) dynamic leap—a "dyno"—where he had to throw himself completely through the air, high above the waves!
Chris graded the route a mind-boggling 9a+ (5.15a), marking it as the hardest deep-water solo climb on Earth. To get it done, he took over 50 massive, bruising falls, plunging 20 metres (66 feet) into the churning sea below. For a decade, it seemed completely impossible for anyone else, until a few climbing mutants repeated it: Slovenia's Jernej Kruder in 2016, Austria's Jakob Schubert in 2021, and Germany's Jan Hojer in 2024. Watching them is pure poetry!
Don't worry—you don't have to be a world champion to climb this legendary rock! If you're an intermediate climber visiting Santanyí, you can still experience the absolute thrill of summiting Es Pontàs by taking the secret backside traverse.
We grade this traverse around a friendly French **5 to 6a**. You start by swimming out, catching a solid handhold just above the waterline, and traversing along a natural limestone ledge. It wraps beautifully around the back of the arch and leads you all the way to the very top. Standing on the summit of the 20-metre arch, with the Balearic wind in your hair, is a memory you'll cherish forever. But let me ask you a favor: some past climbers have left chalk wrappers or tape up there. Please, let's keep this geological wonder pristine. Pack out every piece of trash!
If you want to give it a shot, make sure you're a strong swimmer. The sea can pull, and pulling yourself out of the water onto the wet rock takes a good bit of upper-body strength. Take it slow and stay safe!
Climbing above the sea looks simple, but the marine environment introduces intense risks that demand careful management. Local guides and seasoned climbers strictly enforce these protocols:
The sea beneath the arch can funnel intensely, creating powerful currents that might push you toward the sharp submerged reefs. Getting out of the water onto the slick, vertical limestone is notoriously tough because there are no easy grips. Seasoned climbers always bring a small inflatable dinghy or hang a rope webbing ladder down the start of the climb before dipping in.
Our humid sea air is a killer for normal chalk—it quickly turns it into a greasy, useless paste on your fingers. You'll want to use alcohol-based liquid chalk instead, which dries out your skin in seconds. A neat trick I learned from the pros: wipe your hands directly on your dry shorts to clean them before a big move instead of carrying a soggy chalk bag!
Once you splash, your climbing shoes are soaked and useless for the day. If you're planning on projecting, bring two or three old pairs. Climbing in shoes is also essential to protect your feet from the razor-sharp rock edges and the black sea urchins hiding in the crevices at the water exits. Watch your step!
Jellyfish Hazard: Mediterranean jellyfish (such as the mauve stinger) frequently migrate through these coastal waters, especially in warmer months. Always conduct a visual scan of the water drop zone before you start climbing to ensure a safe fall.
If Es Pontàs feels too dangerous or physically demanding, the neighboring bay inside Cala Santanyí offers a much safer, lower-grade introduction to deep-water soloing. The cliff holds comfort routes ranging from 4c to 6a, the water is calm, and exiting the sea is very easy as you can swim directly back to the sandy beach.
Other excellent climbing areas in Mallorca include:
